The History of TAG Heuer

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Tag Heuer is a heavy hitter when it comes to the evolution of the modern chronograph. The brand is synonymous for racing sports and adventurous bravado fused together. If you are looking for watches that’re robust, functional, and never fail to impress, TAG Heuer watches may just be the one for you.

When talking about the history of TAG Heuer, you first have to talk about Heuer. The Heuer brand was founded in 1860 by Eduoard Heuer. In just a few short years, Heuer filed an impressive number of patents. During 1869, they secured the patent for a keyless, crown-operated winding system for pocket watches. In 1882, they patented the company’s first chronograph. And in 1887, they received one of their most notable patents for an oscillating pinion mechanism. Major watchmakers still use this technology. That same year, Edouard’s son Jules-Edouard joined the family business. Sadly, founder Edouard Heuer passed away five years later, in 1892.

Jules-Edouard proudly carried on his father’s work. In 1895, the company filed yet another patent for its first water resistant case. Then, in 1911, Heuer patented their first dashboard chronograph called Time of Trip. This patent is particularly notable because it sparked the longstanding relationship between Heuer and the automobile and airline industries. The company’s growth allowed for increased research and development, which ultimately led to their next big breakthrough. In 1916, Heuer released the Micrograph, the most accurate stopwatch at the time.

For the next few decades, the brand continued to focus on their close relationship with the automobile and airline industries. In the 1930’s, they began producing chronographs specially designed for pilots. Then, in 1933, Heuer introduced another dashboard instrument for automobiles and planes: the Autavia. This clock featured a timer function and could run for an impressive eight days without being wound.

The 1950’s also marked the beginning of Heur’s partnership with Abercrombie & Fitch. They produced exclusive versions of the Seafarer and Auto-Graph for the brand, with special dials and unique color patterns.

In 1962, Heuer made history as the first Swiss watchmaker to enter outer space. On February 20th, John Glenn made the first American space flight with a Heuer stopwatch on his wrist.

A year later in 1963, Heuer launched one of its now iconic models: the Carrera chronograph. Then, in 1969, the brand made one of its most groundbreaking horological advancements. Heuer had discretely been working on a top secret effort called Project 99 in tandem with Breitling, Buren, and Dubois-Depraz. Together, they invented the first self-winding chronograph movement, called the Chronomatic. They used it in three wrist chronograph models: the Carrera, the Autavia, and the brand new Monaco.

IWC Ingenieur replica 323310

Today, the main role is a vintage IWC Ingenieur replica, it is Laureus IW323310, which is the best replica Ingenieur which Noob factory has ever made. Although it belongs to vintage Ingenieur series, its design is full of modern watch making elements. Besides Portofino, I think Ingenieur IW323310 will be the best watch to fit your business suits. It will perfectly act as a casual watch. Modern case design with vintage dial, the replica gives you two different visual effect.

Noob factory has released several versions for this Ingenieur, and the one here is going to be introduced is the best version. With clone Cal.80111 movement, which is closest to genuine design. Whether engravings, shock absorber, balance wheel or black screws, the movement is cloned according to original IWC 80111 calibre. At the same time, auto rotor uses bronze as main material and has sunray patterns being polished, the surface of auto rotor has been plated with aluminum-magnesium alloy. In a word, the factory watch masters spent a lot of time in cloning 80111 movement and finally achieved perfection, it is the most beautifully polished auto rotor I have ever seen on replica watches.

The case, which uses polishing on bezel, is 42.5mm in diameter and 14mm thick. The case back is solid with engravings, there are grooves on the edge of the back, you need a special tool to open the case back. Actually the highlights of the replica all lie in its dial, which exactly refects its vintage features. First, raised silver hour markers have a tip end, they are different from hour marker design of modern Ingenieur. There are 12 small lume dots next to each hour marker, these lume round dots use original SuperLume C1 material, so they could offer a strong and durable green light in the dark. Central vintage second hand has a red tip, which looks beautiful and increases the readability of the dial, which is blue with sunray patterns.

Ok, this is all review of replica IWC Ingenieur. I believe you guys have a basic understanding of it. With superior quality polishing on case and genuine leather strap, the replica brings a good wearing comfort, featuring an unique vintage Ingenieur dial, it gives you extraordinary visual enjoyment, driven by modified clone 80111 movement, the watch could run more accurately and stably.

Olympic Games 2020 Speedmaster

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The watches are limited to 2020 pieces each and can be bought in a set of all 5. This set will be limited to 55 pieces. As you can see, three of the five watches are in stainless steel and the other two have a bit of gold added to them. In our opinion, it was about time that bi-colour returned to the Moonwatch. The last time was with the Apollo 15 35th Anniversary edition that came out in gold and steel, 1971 pieces only (in 2006). It is clear that Omega took the inspiration for these 5 limited edition models for the Olympic Games in 2020 from existing (or discontinued models). The aforementioned Apollo 15 35th anniversary edition is one of them, but what to think of the Mitsukoshi/Apollo 11 (2004) edition with the Panda dial, or the blue and white dial version that looks like the Gemini IV limited edition from 2005? The red bezel version and the green bezel version seem to be based on the recently released Master Chronometer Moonphase models. Perhaps these can be seen as the most original two versions of the pack. The green bezel Speedmaster uses 18-carat Sedna gold where the black bezel Speedmaster has 18-carat yellow gold for its pushers, crown and bezel. The hands, hour markers and sub-counter rings are also made of gold on both watches.

All five watches have ‘Speedmaster’ printed in red on the dial. The engraved case back is also the same for all watches, except for those thatcome in the set of 55 pieces only. Also, these watches have the same specifications as the regular Moonwatch, so a 42mm case with the hand-wound Lemania based calibre 1861 movement.

As you probably know, in 2020 the Olympic Games will take place in Japan and of course Omega will be the official timekeeper. In celebratio of the 2 year countdown towards these games, Omega introduced a special collection of Speedmaster. They’re inspired by the colours of the iconic Olympic Rings, similar to the set of 5 Seamasters for the 2018 Winter Games.

Cartier Santos Watch Review: The New For 2018 Model

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I reviewed the Cartier Santos 100 here on aBlogtoWatch a couple years ago and still feel very fondly about that model – but more on that later. Today my focus is on the new “Santos de Cartier” Large Model that Cartier released in early 2018. Cartier wanted to make sure the new Santos watches would hit stores soon after the debut (a practice not very common in the watch industry) and early reports are that sales of the new Santos models are strong. The specific model I reviewed is the Cartier Santos reference W2SA0006, which has a two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold case as well as the larger 39.8mm case (Cartier also produces a smaller 35.1mm wide version of the new Santos).

There is a lot to say about the Cartier Santos for 2018 and I discussed a lot of the overall collection details and highlights on this article here. In that article you’ll read more about the available models (and their prices) as well as what Cartier is trying to accomplish with the new Santos collection. This review will build on my discussion of the Santos in previous articles such as the above linked-to Santos 100 review.

Let me sum up the major highlights of the new for 2018 Cartier Santos watches. First, the cases and bracelets are significantly thinner and for some people, probably more comfortable to wear (as compared to the previous generation large-case models, like the Santos 100 Large). There is also the new bezel design which isn’t a huge element, but it does offer a rather distinctive look for the new models. The case contains an in-house automatic movement, and of course the biggest news is the quick release (“QuickSwitch” as Cartier calls it) bracelet/strap system, as well as the tool-less link changing system that lets you adjust the bracelet quickly, easily, and without tools (assuming you currently have fingernails).

My overall impressions of the Cartier Santos Large Model are very good. Some also say that the smaller model can also be worn as a men’s watch, but I’m pretty sure that in the West, the vast majority of 35.1mm wide Santos models will be sold to women. Aside from the size, the primary difference between the larger and smaller Santos model is the placement of a date window display (which exists on the larger model but not on the smaller model).

LONGINES LEGEND DIVER IN BLACK REF. L3.774.2.50.9

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This Longines Legend Diver in Black (reference L3.774.2.50.9) is just like the other Legend Divers, part of the heritage collection. A collection that is only a small portion of Longines annual production of an estimated 1.3 million pieces. A huge number, but the number of different references from Longines is also quite impressive. The heritage collection is mainly aimed at enthusiasts and collectors, that’s one of the reasons why our Longines coverage is mainly based on those watches.If there’s one modern Longines that left me with a huge impression, it is the Longines Legend Diver. Preferably the version without date, but CEO Walter von Känel decided otherwise a few years ago and discontinued the non-date model. This year, Longines added some variation to the Legend Diver, with this all black version. Meet the Longines Legend Diver in Black.

The Longines Legend Diver in Black uses the Longines calibre L888.2 movement, which is based on the ETA A31.L01 movement. This movement ticks at 25,200vph, which is a rather unusual frequency, but Omega’s Co-Axial calibres also use this speed for example. The movement has a power reserve of 64 hours. This ETA A31.L01 is based on the well-known and much praised ETA 2892-A2 movement that you’re most probably familiar with. They slowed down the beat rate of this movement, and extended the power reserve. This ETA A31.L01 is exclusively manufactured and produced for Longines, to be used as their L888.2 movement. Since 1984 or so, Longines doesn’t produce movements in-house anymore and everything is being supplied by ETA (that just like Longines also belongs to Swatch Group). Although Longines is pretty clear (read our interview with CEO Walter von Känel here) that they don’t aim to become a manufacturer of movements again, but rather focus on being able to offer affordable (mechanical) watches, it is quite interesting that they do seem to shift towards the use of movements exclusively produced for them. Their introduction of the VHP movements and the chronometer certified Record collection also shows that Longines feels it has become more important for the consumer that a movement should be something special.

Patek Philippe5740

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Not only the perpetual calendar complication makes up for the price of CHF105,000 Swiss Francs, also the fact that this Nautilus 5740/1G is made of white gold helps. The /1G indicates the use of white gold, for those unfamiliar with the reference codes by Patek Philippe. Gold has also been used for the moon phases disc for example. This disc, made of sapphire, has two gold moons and a number of stars on there.

With the addition of the perpetual calendar to the Nautilus collection, Patek Philippe combined their iconic luxury sports watch with a superb complication. Although in my opinion they also did that already with the chronograph. The chronograph is an often underrated complication in terms of complexity. However, the aesthetics are quite different of course. Where the chronograph always adds some bulkiness due to the extra pushers for operating the movement, the perpetual calendar only needs a few very small correctors that can easily be hidden in the case band.

In my opinion, Patek Philippe did a marvellous job by keeping the aesthetics of the Nautilus as modest as possible. A thin case made of white gold, a beautiful blue dial with the typical Nautilus motif and only a dial that reveals the grand complication. The white gold has, of course, this soft glow that you won’t find on the stainless steel versions of the Nautilus. But only those who know will identify it as a white gold watch, and most probably because of the dial layout that shows there’s more going on than just three hands and a date aperture.

I’ve seen the vintage Nautilus 3700/1A approaching the €100.000 mark, and although  I see the beauty and ‘collector’s passion’ for that reference, I would certainly spend my own money on this perpetual calendar for the sake of combining one of the most beautiful watch designs in the world with one of the most interesting complications in the world, both by Patek Philippe.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection consists of 33 different watches today, the newest model being this Nautilus 5740/1G, or the ‘Nautilus Perpetual Calendar’. The Nautilus 5740/1G is actually the first grand complication in the collection. While the ‘simple’ three-hand Nautilus 5711/1A is the most wanted reference, there is also a date & moon phase model (reference 5712), an annual calendar (reference 5726), a chronograph (reference 5980) and a chronograph & dual time model (reference 5990). And now a perpetual calendar complication has been added to the Nautilus family. What used to be considered as the enfant terrible of this Geneva manufacture, has now become one of the hottest watches in the world. Instead of creating limited editions of all sorts, Patek Philippe chooses to keep the production limited, while the demand is high. Very high. It is simply not available, see the first paragraph of this article.

Swiss Legend Daredevil Chronograph

The new Swiss Legend Daredevil Chronograph for men captures the unrelenting spirit of thrill seekers and risk-takers alike. This precision-crafted Swiss-made wristwatch, debuting today at World of Watches, delivers a fierce and unyielding profile for today’s man.

The robust 50mm diameter, 16mm thick case in a satiny brushed finish makes a bold statement on the wrist. The high-performance black silicone strap with engraved detail on the side panels is accented with the raised Swiss Legend emblem on both sides. The oversized black ion-plated steel crown with raised detail adds to the dynamic good looks.

The stationary bezel has an intricately detailed outer rim and outlined Arabic numeral markers in black ion-plated stainless steel. The intricate, multi-layered dial commands attention with three sub-dials, raised outlined Arabic numeral quarter hour markers, luminous sword hands and luminous outlined dot hour markers.

Features include an automatic date calendar between the 4 and 5 o’clock hours, 1/10th of second, small-second and 30-minute countdown timers. Premium Swiss-made quartz movement inside assures you or precise time-keeping accuracy. Additional features include a scratch-resistant Sapphitek crystal above the dial, along with a locking screw-down crown and case back for water-resistance to 100 meters or 330 feet.

Cartier – Calibre de Cartier Hands

Calibre de Cartier

Nowadays people perceive watchmaking in many different ways. Some look at the purely technical side, some value long-lasting history and tradition, some consider only the money. Either way, there are some brands that miss all the credit they deserve just because when you think of them, first things that comes to mind is not watchmaking. It is the case with Montblanc that to some will always be a pen-maker, or with Ralph Lauren, that is probably the best fashion oriented company making watches (quality watches) today. Cartier suffers from being labeled as a jewelry house – and this is highly inadequate. Not only has Cartier quite an impressive history of making timepieces (Tank watch, just to name one), it is also an incredibly impressive manufacture with skills and craftsmanship. Carole Forestier-Kasapi, one of very few women leading a watchmaking house, took care of Cartier’s highly impressive development and significant number of in-house made, complicated pieces. Through the years we witnessed some highly complicated calibers emerging from La Chaux-de-Fonds, but perhaps the one that should impress the most came in a form of Calibre de Cartier – brand’s first in-house made, basic automatic caliber, and a watch.

Debuted in 2009, CdC (Calibre de Cartier) introduced new base for Cartier’s further mechanical developments – caliber 1904. It is significantly more difficult to create a reliable, robust and efficient mechanical movement that could be mass produced in the future, than to make an Haute Horlogerie masterpiece – and this is where the 1904 shines. While many other companies still stick to off-the-shelf movements, Cartier ventured into real “in-house” territory, and did it with style. 1904 is quite thin, automatically wound caliber with 50h of power reserve, 4Hz balance wheel, date and a stop-second. Set of basic but good looking decorations includes Geneva stripes on the bridges and winding mass as well as some perlage. As usual, time will determine if it actually is a reliable and long-lasting engine, I however had no problems with it. It works and sets easily, keeps good time and presents itself nice through the sapphire back.

The best conclusion I can think of for this review is that if not already, you should pay more attention to Cartier’s watchmaking side. If a brand can offer products ranging from the basic mechanical piece (the Calibre) all the way up to High Complications and concept pieces (like the ID Two, using Calibre case made of sapphire) it deserves respect. Especially, if that products represent true value and quality. Calibre de Cartier from this text (steel, leather) costs around 7.500USD and you have to add another 650USD for the bracelet.

The Rolex Military Submariner 5513

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When it comes to rare luxury watches that are sure to turn heads there are few that are as desirable as the Military Rolex Submariner 5513. Forget finding one of these watches in mint condition. Finding one at all is a victory for most collectors. The Royal Navy had about 1200 made in the 1970’s. It is said by some experts that only a few hundred exist in their original condition. Many of these watches have had parts replaced or have been destroyed over the years.

The dial is also a dead giveaway as two which reference of the Military Submariner you might have. The markers on a reference 5517 will have a much bolder look than the 5513 shown above.

Moving on to the watch hands you will notice that the Military Submariner’s arms can be a little different than the standard 5513. The Military issue 5513 sports one of two variations. The first uses the standard Mercedes hands. The latter will utilize two sword hands and has no Mercedes emblem. The Omega Seamaster has similar sword hands, which some people have used as replacements. A good collector should inspect the hands to ensure that they are in fact original.

The Bezel of the Milsub 5513 was specially crafted with an insert that may contain markings all the way around. The case is a standard 5513 but the spring bars are fitted with metal bars that use a NATO type strap. Because of this configuration the MilSub’s are not seen with a stainless steel strap unless modified.The caseback has a very unique set of symbols and numbers that will be different depending on the delivery date. Some of these models were delivered with Mercedes hands and others with 15-minute bezels. Identifying the correct reference before making an evaluation of a Milsub will be important.

On the back of each case there is a MOD number that begins with 0552 or W10. A triangle with a hat will be displayed directly below the issue and year numbers.

IWC Pilot Watch Collection

On Monday January 16th, 2012 the 21th edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will start again, where 19 brands will be exhibiting their new marvelous watch collections. And, IWC just released the images of the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Miramar, named after the former location of the US Navy Fighter Weapons School (which is also known as TOP GUN).IWC Pilot Watch Chronograph Top Gun 2012

The 48 mm case is dark grey ceramic – in the photos it seems to have a glossy finish – with a dial that has faux patina and a green nylon strap. Inside is the IWC cal. 89365 flyback movement, similar to that in the Portuguese Chronograph Yacht Club.
Alongside the chronograph, the Top Gun Miramar range will also have a 48 mm Big Pilot with a similar design.It has been known for a while that this year IWC is unveiling a new range of Pilot watches. As the Pilot collection of IWC is a legendary and hard seller, the expectations are high. One model has been released already.

The press release also indicates that we can expect the following eye candies:

an all new Big Pilot’s Watch Top Gun Miramar with similar design elements as the Chronograph Top Gun Miramar and the same movement, caliber 51111, as the regular Big Pilot’s Watch;a first for the regular collection: new Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun features a perpetual calendar with its four-digit year display, moon phase display and seven-day power reserve;

What everyone expected: the size of the regular Pilot’s Watch Chronograph increase with 1 mm, now 43 mm in diameter.A logical move in the sequel: the launch of the new Pilot Watch Mark XVII with a diameter of 41 mm

The gold chrono is back: the Spitfire Chronograph with its IWC-manufactured 89365 calibre will be available in red gold.A long anticipated version: new Pilot’s Watch World Timer with a 24-hour ring that makes it possible to look at all 24 time zones, including the Universal Time Coordinated (UTC). The city ring shows the names of 23 places around the globe, each of which represents a time zone. The dial shows local time, which can be adjusted forwards or backwards in one-hour steps – also when crossing the International Date Line.

A new 46mm Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph and features new red design elements on the dial.