Patek Philippe5740

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Not only the perpetual calendar complication makes up for the price of CHF105,000 Swiss Francs, also the fact that this Nautilus 5740/1G is made of white gold helps. The /1G indicates the use of white gold, for those unfamiliar with the reference codes by Patek Philippe. Gold has also been used for the moon phases disc for example. This disc, made of sapphire, has two gold moons and a number of stars on there.

With the addition of the perpetual calendar to the Nautilus collection, Patek Philippe combined their iconic luxury sports watch with a superb complication. Although in my opinion they also did that already with the chronograph. The chronograph is an often underrated complication in terms of complexity. However, the aesthetics are quite different of course. Where the chronograph always adds some bulkiness due to the extra pushers for operating the movement, the perpetual calendar only needs a few very small correctors that can easily be hidden in the case band.

In my opinion, Patek Philippe did a marvellous job by keeping the aesthetics of the Nautilus as modest as possible. A thin case made of white gold, a beautiful blue dial with the typical Nautilus motif and only a dial that reveals the grand complication. The white gold has, of course, this soft glow that you won’t find on the stainless steel versions of the Nautilus. But only those who know will identify it as a white gold watch, and most probably because of the dial layout that shows there’s more going on than just three hands and a date aperture.

I’ve seen the vintage Nautilus 3700/1A approaching the €100.000 mark, and although  I see the beauty and ‘collector’s passion’ for that reference, I would certainly spend my own money on this perpetual calendar for the sake of combining one of the most beautiful watch designs in the world with one of the most interesting complications in the world, both by Patek Philippe.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus collection consists of 33 different watches today, the newest model being this Nautilus 5740/1G, or the ‘Nautilus Perpetual Calendar’. The Nautilus 5740/1G is actually the first grand complication in the collection. While the ‘simple’ three-hand Nautilus 5711/1A is the most wanted reference, there is also a date & moon phase model (reference 5712), an annual calendar (reference 5726), a chronograph (reference 5980) and a chronograph & dual time model (reference 5990). And now a perpetual calendar complication has been added to the Nautilus family. What used to be considered as the enfant terrible of this Geneva manufacture, has now become one of the hottest watches in the world. Instead of creating limited editions of all sorts, Patek Philippe chooses to keep the production limited, while the demand is high. Very high. It is simply not available, see the first paragraph of this article.

Swiss Legend Daredevil Chronograph

The new Swiss Legend Daredevil Chronograph for men captures the unrelenting spirit of thrill seekers and risk-takers alike. This precision-crafted Swiss-made wristwatch, debuting today at World of Watches, delivers a fierce and unyielding profile for today’s man.

The robust 50mm diameter, 16mm thick case in a satiny brushed finish makes a bold statement on the wrist. The high-performance black silicone strap with engraved detail on the side panels is accented with the raised Swiss Legend emblem on both sides. The oversized black ion-plated steel crown with raised detail adds to the dynamic good looks.

The stationary bezel has an intricately detailed outer rim and outlined Arabic numeral markers in black ion-plated stainless steel. The intricate, multi-layered dial commands attention with three sub-dials, raised outlined Arabic numeral quarter hour markers, luminous sword hands and luminous outlined dot hour markers.

Features include an automatic date calendar between the 4 and 5 o’clock hours, 1/10th of second, small-second and 30-minute countdown timers. Premium Swiss-made quartz movement inside assures you or precise time-keeping accuracy. Additional features include a scratch-resistant Sapphitek crystal above the dial, along with a locking screw-down crown and case back for water-resistance to 100 meters or 330 feet.

Cartier – Calibre de Cartier Hands

Calibre de Cartier

Nowadays people perceive watchmaking in many different ways. Some look at the purely technical side, some value long-lasting history and tradition, some consider only the money. Either way, there are some brands that miss all the credit they deserve just because when you think of them, first things that comes to mind is not watchmaking. It is the case with Montblanc that to some will always be a pen-maker, or with Ralph Lauren, that is probably the best fashion oriented company making watches (quality watches) today. Cartier suffers from being labeled as a jewelry house – and this is highly inadequate. Not only has Cartier quite an impressive history of making timepieces (Tank watch, just to name one), it is also an incredibly impressive manufacture with skills and craftsmanship. Carole Forestier-Kasapi, one of very few women leading a watchmaking house, took care of Cartier’s highly impressive development and significant number of in-house made, complicated pieces. Through the years we witnessed some highly complicated calibers emerging from La Chaux-de-Fonds, but perhaps the one that should impress the most came in a form of Calibre de Cartier – brand’s first in-house made, basic automatic caliber, and a watch.

Debuted in 2009, CdC (Calibre de Cartier) introduced new base for Cartier’s further mechanical developments – caliber 1904. It is significantly more difficult to create a reliable, robust and efficient mechanical movement that could be mass produced in the future, than to make an Haute Horlogerie masterpiece – and this is where the 1904 shines. While many other companies still stick to off-the-shelf movements, Cartier ventured into real “in-house” territory, and did it with style. 1904 is quite thin, automatically wound caliber with 50h of power reserve, 4Hz balance wheel, date and a stop-second. Set of basic but good looking decorations includes Geneva stripes on the bridges and winding mass as well as some perlage. As usual, time will determine if it actually is a reliable and long-lasting engine, I however had no problems with it. It works and sets easily, keeps good time and presents itself nice through the sapphire back.

The best conclusion I can think of for this review is that if not already, you should pay more attention to Cartier’s watchmaking side. If a brand can offer products ranging from the basic mechanical piece (the Calibre) all the way up to High Complications and concept pieces (like the ID Two, using Calibre case made of sapphire) it deserves respect. Especially, if that products represent true value and quality. Calibre de Cartier from this text (steel, leather) costs around 7.500USD and you have to add another 650USD for the bracelet.